Just over 110km from the capital, San Antonio de Areco is one of Argentina’s most enchanting weekend escape destinations. A visit here feels like stepping back in time to see some of the best of Argentine culture: cobbled streets, traditional estancias, gaucho culture and asado.
As it’s so close to the city, I was surprised how different the atmosphere and culture was here – it’s no surprise that it’s one of the best day trips from Buenos Aires. However, I stayed for a few days to relax and really get to know the town.
In this comprehensive travel guide, I’ll explain why San Antonio de Areco in Argentina should be on your travel radar, what to do while you’re there, and the best places to stay & eat!
Is San Antonio de Areco worth visiting?
After a few days in Buenos Aires I was craving a bit of countryside time and initially I was looking further afield. Yet after I started reading about San Antonio de Areco, I realised it offered exactly what I wanted, only a couple of hours from the capital.
It is often called the cradle of Argentina’s gaucho culture, renowned for its deep rural roots and living history. I would note that it’s probably best to visit over a weekend as during the week many of the attractions and shops are not open.
How to Get to San Antonio de Areco from Buenos Aires
Travellers typically reach San Antonio de Areco by car or bus from Buenos Aires:
- By car: Take Acceso Norte and Ruta Nacional 8. The journey takes about 1.5–2 hours depending on traffic.
- By bus: Several daily long-distance buses depart from Retiro Terminal in Buenos Aires, offering a convenient option for day-trippers and weekenders. Journey time is around 2 hours and costs approximately £8. You can book in advance through Busbud.
- Uber: If you’re not travelling on your own and don’t have a car then it’s probably worth getting a taxi. The cost between us from Buenos Aires was only £30 which was more affordable than numerous bus tickets.
- Guided tour – Lots of people visit via a guided tour from Buenos Aires. These tours usually offer transportation as well as food & activities, although you’ll only be able to enjoy the area for the day.
Things to do in San Antonio de Areco, Argentina
Visit an estancia
The traditional estancias (ranches) outside town are the heart of the San Antonio de Areco experience and certainly feels very Argentinean. Many offer a day visit with lunch and activities, and some let you stay overnight. I’ve written a full guide to the best estancias near San Antonio de Areco, so have a read of that to choose one.
Wander the old buildings
The historic centre is full of old buildings and is easy to explore on foot.
- Plaza Ruiz de Arellano is the main square, and the best place to start.
- The church of San Antonio de Padua sits on the square. The original dates back to 1730, although it was rebuilt in the late 1800s.
- The Municipal Hall is a long, pink Belle Époque building with a lovely central courtyard.
- The Puente Viejo (Old Bridge) over the Río Areco was built in 1857 and is one of the town’s best-known sights.
- The Museo Gauchesco Ricardo Güiraldes in Parque Criollo includes an old country general store, or pulpería, dating from the 1830s, where gauchos used to gather.
- The old bars and general stores, such as the traditional Boliche de Bessonart, have kept their character and make a lovely stop for a drink.
Browse the market
Next to the river there’s a market area with arts and crafts stalls, selling local handmade goods and gifts. It’s a lovely spot for a wander, and easy to combine with a stroll along the riverside.
Go shopping
San Antonio de Areco is known for its craftspeople, so it’s a great place to shop.
- Silverware: The Draghi family’s museum and workshop is famous for its silver work.
- Leather and gaucho goods: Think belts, bags and traditional gaucho items.
- Ceramics and weaving: Look out for ceramics and woven goods from local artisans.
The main shopping streets are Alsina and Arellano, running south from the main square.
Try the alfajores at La Olla de Cobre
The traditional treat in San Antonio de Areco is the artisanal alfajor from Chocolatería La Olla de Cobre. This family-owned chocolate shop and alfajor factory has been going since the late 1970s, when it was set up to give visitors an authentic souvenir from the town.
Each alfajor is two soft, round biscuits made with flour, butter, sugar and eggs, sandwiched with rich dulce de leche and covered in chocolate. They weigh around 55g, so they’re a generous treat and easy to take home as gifts.
Go horse riding
You’re in gaucho country, so horse riding is one of the best things to do here. Most estancias offer rides across the pampas, often as part of a day visit with lunch. It’s a lovely way to experience the countryside, and you don’t need to be an experienced rider. Be sure to book in advance.
Cool off by the dam
On a hot day people go to cool off around the dam section and weir system on the Areco River that creates a small reservoir.
Be aware that swimming there is technically not allowed (according to the signs), there are no lifeguards, and the current near a dam can be strong, so check local advice and it’s at your own risk. If you’d rather stick to somewhere official, many hotels and estancias have pools. Posada de la Plaza has a seasonal one.
Eat a traditional asado
You can’t visit San Antonio de Areco without trying asado, Argentina’s famous barbecue. Meat is cooked slowly over open fire, sometimes on a metal cross, and served with salads and chimichurri. You’ll find it on restaurant menus in town and at the estancias, where it’s often the highlight of the day.
Where to stay in San Antonio de Areco
San Antonio de Areco doesn’t have lots of hotels, but there’s a good range of places to stay.
- Posada de la Plaza is a gorgeous old country house a short walk from the centre, with a seasonal pool and breakfast included.
- Antigua Casona is a stylish traditional guesthouse that has a lovely pool.
- If you’re on a smaller budget the cute Cabaña Lo de Mingo has some great self catering cabins on stilts.
- For the full countryside experience, stay at one of the estancias (see my guide to the best estancias near San Antonio de Areco).
Where to eat in San Antonio de Areco
San Antonio de Areco is a great place to eat and there are so many places you’ll discover just wandering around from old gaucho bars to craft beer spots and of course plenty of meat. Here’s where I’d go.
Boliche de Bessonart
This old two-storey brick building (Zapiola 151) is worth just walking past to look at as it looks like it’s straight out of a western. It’s still a regular watering hole for local gauchos. It’s a lovely place for a vermouth or a beer with a platter of cured meats and cheese. I’d come for the atmosphere and a drink rather than a full dinner.
La Esquina de Merti
This traditional corner pulpería (Arellano 149) sits right on the main square. It’s one of the most atmospheric spots in town, and a good one for a coffee, a drink or something to eat while you watch the world go by.
La Cuadra
La Cuadra (Zapiola 76) brews its own artisanal beer, with a few varieties, including an amber Scottish ale and a paler pilsner. They serve pizzas, sandwiches and snacks to go with it. It’s closed Monday to Thursday, which fits the point that San Antonio de Areco is best at the weekend.
Almacén de Ramos Generales
This restored old general store (Zapiola 143) has a rustic setting and is a good place for traditional Argentine food and meat. Book ahead at weekends.
For asado
The estancias are often the best place for a proper asado, often as part of a day visit, and there are several parrillas in town too. On the weekend you can find a few great asado spots on the other side of the bridge to the main town, often with music and a bit of a party atmosphere.
When to visit San Antonio de Areco, Argentina
San Antonio de Areco is a year-round destination. Weekends are much busier, as people from Buenos Aires head out for the day. Normally I try to avoid busy times, but actually during the week I found that many places were closed including restaurants and shops, so it’s probably best to book in advance and time your visit to include at least one day of the weekend.
The biggest event of the year is the Día de la Tradición, held around 10 November, when gauchos fill the town for horse games and folk music. Hotels fill up quickly, so book well ahead.
The weather in San Antonio de Areco is warm and sunny for much of the year, and remember it’s the southern hemisphere, so summer is December to February. It gets hot then, with highs around 30°C, although a light jacket is enough in the evenings.
Winters (June to August) are cooler, with highs of about 15–17°C and chilly nights. I’d say spring (October and November) and autumn (March and April) are the most comfortable times to visit, with pleasant days of around 22–27°C.
Final thoughts
If you’re looking for a taste of Argentine countryside without going far from Buenos Aires, San Antonio de Areco is the place. Come for the gaucho culture, stay for the asado, and give yourself more than a day if you can.
